PDY

For those of you who read my post carefully last night and know a bit about Eastern Arkansas and adjacent geography, you would have realized that yesterday afternoon, I was actually driving across the Mighty Mississippi on the way to my hotel in Memphis, Tennessee. And I must say, it was a great letdown, totally anti-climactic. I mean, this is the Mississippi River, a huge milestone, and driving? Nope, ain’t happening that way.

So this morning, after running an errand or two in the big city, I went right back to the base of the bridge in Memphis, and walked back to Arkansas. And I stepped into West Memphis, AR, turned around and walked back. You can’t say you’re walking from Austin to NYC and then drive across the Mississippi River. That’s just not right.

Had a great walk back into Tennessee… took forever. Talked to my sister and high school friend of many years, took a bunch of pictures and just sucked it all in as I walked suspended over the Ol’ Mississip. I needed this little reprieve, not so much physically, but I needed to regroup. Yesterday was tough, upstairs, but tonight I am refreshed and not only ready to tackle Tennessee, but to really enjoy doing so, and therein lies the difference. I’ve been so focused on the day to day challenges for the last week that I had forgotten the big picture, the poster, of this crazy walk to New York.

Again this morning the country boy came out. By pure coincidence (or was it?), the hotel I chose was about a quarter mile from an REI store… big time when you’ve been in the boonies for 5 weeks! So I walked over there, and along the way, caught myself waving at the cars! It’s kind of become a highway habit recently, but something you probs shouldn’t do on the very busy Poplar Ave, lest you be mistaken for a complete whack-job dude walking down the street smiling. From then on I refrained, but did it again by new habit when I got near downtown, and a little self-giggle ensued.

REI is always good… my feet were treated to a new pair of Salomon shoes. The pair Isabela brought me on Aug 20 have been a lifesaver, and have over 400 miles logged on this trip alone, but they’re getting thin and tired. I walked out of the store with the new ones on my feet, and after the 12 or so miles I walked today, they’re ready to go. The old pair I’ll have bronzed and placed on the fireplace mantle, or give them away to someone along the way who could use them.

Back to the bridge. Now your didn’t think I would just leave Arkansas without a proper goodbye did you? Of course I wouldn’t, as I am very appreciative of the last two weeks crossing the state. Arkansas now has a place in my heart and mind it never had before… it was nice, very nice, And I must thank the people who made it nice… Tanji. Jim, Marta, Drew, Mr. Buck and Leslie, Codi, Nixon, Rodney, Mason, Fernando, Alexis, my cop from Nevada County, the guy who gave me a copy of “Our Daily Bread”, all the guys who stopped to ask if I needed help or gave me water, brown lab with Birkenstock, black lab with funny teeth, Amber in the Uber, Jimmy Jack and Jennifer, Silly Pete and Wendell, Dexter.., thank you all, and those I’ve apologetically missed mentioning, You’ve made the last two weeks awesome, and will forever be with me. Thank you, it’s been my pleasure being with you, thank you for helping me along, and I say farewell, not goodbye, but fare ye well.

Off the bridge, now properly crossed, I walked along the shores of this little river and up to downtown, just below the bluffs that have an enormous amount of American history, specifics of which I don’t know altogether too good. And then another culture shock. Beale Street is pretty cool, widely considered the home of the Blues, though Chicago and New Orleans may try to get some credit too. Was really nice, music all over the place, tourists all over the place, whom I ignored, being a local right? Stopped at a couple places, listened to the bands, talked to some of them tourists, and just enjoyed it.

So I was walking in front of this place, and through the cacophony of all the clubs and bands, playing clear and loud on a speaker was Shake it Out - Florence and the Machine. Remember what I wrote about on Day 1? I reached for my phone to try to share it with you, but my phone had died, and instead of getting frustrated at a dead battery, I just interpreted as “that’s for you, not anyone else, just you”. Battery back a few minutes later, same place, another song I love, and a favorite lyric… “just a second, we’re not broken, just bent.” Thanks Pink.

Full of the Beale Street, I walked a couple of blocks to The RendezvouS, arguably the best barbecue in Memphis, for my third pork sandwich in 24 hours,… it’s what we do around here. Super cool afternoon, changed the preconceived thoughts I had about Memphis Tennessee.

Back at calm hotel. On way home, went back to REI just in case I needed anything, and left empty handed. I have everything I need, and it’s all spread out on the bed beside me. It’ll all fit well into my backpack, and the rest, the important stuff, fits very nicely in my head and heart, and unlike my backpack, most of that stuff is quite light, thankfully.